This is Iglesia de San Martín in Frómista. Built around 1066, it is one of the best preserved Romanesque churches in Spain. The symmetry and simplicity are remarkable, as are the intricate capitals (tops of pillars) that contain stories from the Bible and other moral teachings. (Pictures below.)
The acoustics are also incredible. I got the place to myself for a fer minutes, so I sand a few appropriate bits from Rutter and Webber. Wow. I could build chords on my own reverberations!
The church was definitely the highlight of the day. Otherwise, I was walking slowly down 18 km of trail that was mostly next to a rural highway. Switch the wheat for corn, and it was much like walking the shoulder of a county highway back home. (Complete with a few groups of Harley Davidson noisemakers out for a Sunday cruise!) It can't all be incredible.
Oh, and it was slow going because my right leg started to hurt in much the same way that my left has been. So, I took it slow with lots of breaks and stretching, and got through ok. I'll have my luggage shipped tomorrow, go easy the next day, and then I've got a rest day. Hopefully this isn't the start of more troubles!
Tomorrow: 24 km (the only option) to Albergue Los Canarios in Calzadilla de la Cueza.
Pictures of the church: