Villafranca Montes de Oca

This mural offered encouragement on the way out of town this morning. Doesn't seem that much further... just a couple more cities! (Actually, ~550 km) But, I am making progress. Roughly a third of the way there.

All kinds of interesting things along the way. Like this hermitage built around a cave where an image of the baby Jesus was discovered in 712. The real miracle seems to be that the sculpture that was discovered is from the 12th century! 

Today's walk got a little sketchy in the last hour or so. This is not what you want to see when crossing exposed highlands:

(Rolling and towering thunderstorms.)

My rain gear did its job, but I still got plenty wet. When I got to the alburgue, I decided to ask if they might have a single room available... they did, in the attached hotel:

This one is so worth an extra $60!

(I started with an hour soaking in the bathtub!)

Tomorrow: A significant climb over 

Alto de Valbuena and then to Agés, where I'll stay at Albergue El Pajar de Agés.

Belorado

Yup. A snail on a thistle. That's what I've got for today. It was grey, damp, and cold. But thankfully I avoided significant rain.

Walk was through rolling hills of wheat, rapa, and potatoes. A few little villages along the way, with minimal signs of inhabitants. 

And another interesting church door. 

Tomorrow: A short 12 km to Villafranca Montes de Oca. Staying in a bunk at Hotel San Antón Abad.

Grañon

I spent some time at the Cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzeda today. Quite a collection of pieces from the last 8 centuries, an remarkably ornate tomb of Santo Domingo, and a live rooster and hen. (I'll let the reader research this interesting story.)

Also, climbed the tower:

Staying in a room in a nice house tonight. 

Tomorrow will be rainy, but better in the morning. So with 16 km to go to get to Belorado, I'll be getting out early. Room reserved at Hotel A Santiago. 

Cirueña

16 kilometers through the heart of La Rioja. Vineyards to the horizon! 

Nice weather today, though cooler than expected. Apparently this has been a cold, wet spring in this part of Spain. Lucky me!

My cold is much better. Aside from an annoyingly drippy nose, it's not affecting me too much any more. 

Tomorrow is 12 km to Grañon, crossing the Rio Oja (hence "Rioja") and to the edge of Castilla y León, which will take several weeks to cross.

Tomorrow night: House Donde Cristina in Grañon. 

The Man in the Arena

"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."

Theodore Roosevelt; Paris, France; April 23rd, 1910

Nájera, day 2

Little town built between river and rock walls. Has a ~1000 year monastery built against to rock to celebrate a miraculous vision in a cave.

I've been resting in my room for most of the day. Cold is getting better.

Fair weather tomorrow, so I'm going to get back on the Camino. Staying at Alburgue Victoria in Cirueña. (Private rooms for the next few days while sick.)

Tao Te Ching 37

The Tao never does anything, yet through it all things are done. If powerful men and women could center themselves in it, the whole world would be transformed by itself, in its natural rhythms. People would be content with their simple, everyday lives, in harmony, and free of desire. When there is no desire, all things are at peace.

Tr: Stephen Mitchell 

Note - the first sentence is likely the source of this quote, often (mis)attributed to Lao Tzu:

"Nature never hurries, yet all things are accomplished."

Nájera, day 1

Today was a bit rough. Sore throat, runny nose, rain, wind, and cool air - and a 17 km walk. But I made it through in reasonably good spirits and am now settled in to a tiny private room at Hotel Fernando III in Nájera for two nights.

Managed to get some cold medicine from a farmacia and tissues and throat lozenges from a grocery shop, so I'm pretty much set to hunker down and hopefully get through this.

Bummer that I'm in the heart of Rioja and need to stay away from the wine. As you see in the pictures today's walk featured vineyards and olive trees. 

Navarette

Late breakfast with Kati before she started her journey home. Then a fast 13 kilometers to Navarette with thunderstorms threatening. 

Good news is that my ankle did quite well today, even with the faster pace.

Bad news is that I developed a pretty bad sore throat this evening and seem to be heading into an illness.

I've booked a small private room in Nájera for the next couple nights.