Tuesday, July 1, 2025

Madrid - day 3

Another relaxed day in the 100 degree heat. 

I spent several hours visiting the royal palace and the associated galleries that house art and furnishings that used to be in the palace. (Is it still hoarding if you keep everything, but display it in an art gallery?)

I didn't take many pictures, but here is the throne room:



This evening, I was surprised by larger than usual crowds by my hotel (and lots of police.) I later discovered that there was a public concert by a popular avant-garde Flemenco artist in the plaza at the end of my block!


I start my journey home tomorrow at about 1pm Madid time, and hopefully will be home about 18 hours later (around midnight Madison time.)
 

Monday, June 30, 2025

Madrid - day 2


Slow morning, then to the Museo Reina Sophie, which has an extensive collection of modern Spanish art, including Picasso and Dali, and most notable, Picasso's Guernica. In addition to the actual painting, they have a very interesting collection of preliminary sketches and work-in-progess pictures of the Guernica.

Later in the afternoon, I had a lunch of churros and chocolate, enjoyed a siesta, went shopping for a bag to protect my backpack for the trip home, and then went out for a roving dinner of tapas and other Spanish delights.

Sunday, June 29, 2025

Madrid - day 1


Today's adventure started last night...
My plan was to have a nice dinner, then take a shower, handwash my clothes, and go to bed. 

Dinner was great. Fresh caught sea bass, roasted potatoes, and a stewed vegetable relish.


Back in my room, I started running the shower, and before the water got hot, it turned dark brown. Uh oh. I notified the management, and they got back to me quickly with a message just posted by the village. Short version: water for the entire village is contaminated by a break in a main line, which they haven't found yet.

So, no shower, no laundry, no drinking water (and I had only had wine with dinner...), and no idea when it would be resolved. Also, I was depending on a restaurant breakfast this morning.

Much longer story short, overnight I figured out where to get the village updates (Facebook!), found out where they were distributing bottled water, and picked up what I needed this morning. I also found a restaurant that would serve me toast with cheese and steamed milk with instant coffee, so I got enough to start the day.

I even had enough time to climb back up the hill for some pictures before catching the bus to Santiago.


I had lunch in the bus station in Santiago before boarding a high-speed (180+ mph!) train to Madrid. Then a short ride on an underground commuter train, and I popped up in the middle of the crowded, 100°F center of Madrid. It took about 6 hours to cover a distance that took me about 45 days. Magic!

The rest of the day was a shower (finally!), a barbershop, dinner, laundry, and a slow wandering of the crowded streets, reconnecting with "city energy."

Tomorrow: Picasso's Guernica and other artistic treasures. 

Saturday, June 28, 2025

Muxía - day 2

I spent today wandering around Muxia, revisiting some sites from yesterday, sitting on the rocks pondering the crashing of the waves, and climbing to the highest point on the peninsula. See pictures below. 

But first, some numbers! (I think I've got these right...)

I've completed ~900 kilometers (559 mi) on "official" routes: Camino Frances, Camino Finisterre, and Camino Finisterre a Muxía. (Approximately 900 km because there is some variation in the reported length of the Camino Frances, +/- ~15 km.)
 
Of this, I have walked every step except for the 30 km from Bizkarreta to Pamplona, when I first injured my leg. 

Thus, I have walked 870 km (540 mi) in total, including the last 834 km (518 mi) since Pamplona. I have carried my pack all but two days (47 km / 29 mi).

Of course, this distance does not include many additional miles on side trips, explorations, errands, etc!

I left Saint Jean Pied de Port on Easter Sunday, April 20th, and finished my journey on June 27th, 68 days later. I traveled to a new location on 55 of those days.

And this one is interesting: I have not ridden in a vehicle for the last 65 days!

Tomorrow, I will board this magical thing called a bus, and return to Santiago de Compostela briefly before boarding a high-speed train to Madrid. 

I'll spend three nights in Madrid at Madridcito hotel before flying home on July 2nd.

Today's pictures: 


Friday, June 27, 2025

Muxía



The end.

Thursday, June 26, 2025

Lires

Back on the trail today. I walked about 15 km north (over more hills!) to the little coastal village of Lires. Not much here, but close to a beautiful beach and coastline!

Starting the day in Finisterre, it was as it has been the last couple of days - overcast and foggy. 

I'm happy there was sunny weather on the day I arrived in Finisterre, because otherwise my impression of the town was that it is a very gray place - gray sky, gray sea, gray cement, and gray granite. And while I'm painting the picture, add the incessant sound of seagulls, day and night. So, not the peaceful and picturesque destination I had expected!

This afternoon was much more of what I had in mind:




I'm hopeful that the scenery and the weather will continue tomorrow for my *last* day of walking to Muxia. I'll be staying at Grupoele3 Muxia Puerto for the next 2 nights, before traveling back to Madrid.

Wednesday, June 25, 2025

Finisterre - day 3

I had a quiet day relaxing in town and in my room. Low clouds most of the day, so not much to see. I did walk through the wholesale fish auction at the end of the day, which was interesting. 




Tomorrow: 14 km to the coastal village of Lires, staying at LiresCa house.