Thursday, June 5, 2025

O Cebreiro

I started today at the bottom of the valley in the middle of the picture! It was a beautiful hike all the way up - deep forests, soaring views, bright colors.



At the top, I visited the rebuilt 9th century church known for a eucharistic miracle in the 13th century.





And, I am finally out of Castilla y León and staring across Galicia, which will take me to the sea.


Ended the day on the summit, hoping for a sunset among the clouds. 


Tomorrow: A shorter, but hilly day to Casa de Lucas in Fonfría.

Wednesday, June 4, 2025

La Portela de Valcarce


Back into mountains today! Followed the old highway up the river valley through the foothills and gradually higher. Reminded me a lot of Colorado - except with broad leaf things everywhere and very few needles. Also, (and related) more humidity. Not uncomfortable, but definitely not "dry mountain air."

Along the way, I went through Villafranca del Bierzo, a sizable village at the foot of the mountains with a river, a castle, and several churches. One of the churches, Iglasia de Santiago, has the distinction of having the Puerto del Perdón, through which a pilgrim too sick or injured to complete the journey to Santiago de Compostela may receive the same blessing of forgiveness. (Apparently this option is no longer offered. I imagine that modern transportation has something to do with that.)





Earlier today, more vineyards. Note the rose bushes at the end of the rows in the second picture. Apparently, the roses are less hardy than the vines, so the are indicators of the health of the field.



A giant wine press:




And here in the hills, ancient chestnut trees:


Tomorrow: 9 miles and 2000+ feet up to O Cebreiro, staying at Casa Anton.