Logroño

Left the Navarre region, which I have been crossing since entering Spain, and entered La Rioja, shortly before this grand bridge across the Ebro river and into Logroño's in old city center. A change in climate and crops today as well, from mostly grain ro grapes and olives.

Spent most of the day in the city. Had dinner with Kati from Germany and talked late into the night. 

Tomorrow, onward to Ikigai Alburgue in Navarette.

Viana

Strange day. Got started early due to the promise of lightning and "torrential downpours." Came about a quarter-mile short of finishing the 7 mile hike to Viana in time. (They weren't kidding about heavy rain! But they were a little late on predicted start.)

Got to my albergue rather wet and was let in, grudgingly. (The place doesn't normally open until noon.) Dropped my bag and headed to a cafe for coffee and late breakfast.

Sat with an old Dutchman for a couple hours, drinking coffee and discussing the deep lessons of the Camino. I am increasingly appreciating how the Camino is an analogy for life; how it gives us the chance to examine how we live, if we choose to be open to its lessons and to look inward.

Tomorrow: Taking a break from crowded dormitory accommodations and staying at the FG Hotel in Logroño.

Eventually, I think I'm heading for the mountains on the horizon: 

And another sunrise photo:

Desiderata

Desiderata by Max Ehrmann, 1927

Go placidly amid the noise and the haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence. As far as possible, without surrender, be on good terms with all persons.

Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even to the dull and the ignorant; they too have their story.

Avoid loud and aggressive persons; they are vexatious to the spirit. If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain or bitter, for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.

Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans. Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.

Exercise caution in your business affairs, for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals, and everywhere life is full of heroism.

Be yourself. Especially do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about love; for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment, it is as perennial as the grass.

Take kindly the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth.

Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with dark imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness.

Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here.

And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be. And whatever your labors and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life, keep peace in your soul. With all its sham, drudgery and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

Sansol

Long breakfast. Short walk (7k), second half with a retiring Dutch helicopter physician. Lunch with locals. Visited eight-sided church in Torres del Rio. Dinner at Alburgue Sansol, where I met Jose - young Mexican entrepreneur making tortillas. Played guitars after dinner. 

Good day!

Tomorrow: Alburgue Ivar in Viana. 

Start Close In

Start Close In

by David Whyte

Start close in,

don’t take the second step

or the third,

start with the first

thing

close in,

the step

you don’t want to take.

Start with

the ground

you know,

the pale ground

beneath your feet,

your own

way to begin

the conversation.

Start with your own

question,

give up on other

people’s questions,

don’t let them

smother something

simple.

To hear

another’s voice,

follow

your own voice,

wait until

that voice

becomes an

intimate

private ear

that can

really listen

to another.

Start right now

take a small step

you can call your own

don’t follow

someone else’s

heroics, be humble

and focused,

start close in,

don’t mistake

that other

for your own.

Start close in,

don’t take

the second step

or the third,

start with the first

thing

close in,

the step

you don’t want to take.

Los Arcos

Another late medival church, but with extensive rebuilding and adornment in the 16th to 18th centuries. By far the most lavishly decorated church I've seen so far, and quite surprising to walk into this in the little village of Los Arcos! 

Beautiful weather today and beautiful, deep  conversation with Kati, the German woman I met yesterday at Irache. After dropping my bag in Los Arcos, I continued on with Kati half way to the next village before returning to my hostel.

Dinner at a local bar. Barcelona vs Internazionale on the TV, and an enthusiastic group of kids there watching. 

Tomorrow: Short walk to Albergue Sansol in Sansol.

Villamayor Monjardin

There's a castle on top of that mountain. But for once, my hostel was not next door to the highest structure for miles! (I'm in the little village on the horizon on the left.)

Beautiful day walking. Met a delightful German woman along the way and walked and talked all afternoon. 

Sadly, the wine fountain at Irache was not running.

Tomorrow: Casa Arqueña in Los Arcos.