Airexe - All God's Critters

Much of the walk today was through active (and aromatic) farms and farm villages, with much more of a livestock focus than I've seen elsewhere. I captured a few portraits...

Looking through my pictures, I didn't get a goat today, so here's a kid from a few days ago:

And to remind me of home... Holsteins?

Airexe

After a late start due to a rain delay, today was another good day of walking over rolling hills, mostly through forests and pastures but with some roadside trails. Much of this area centers around livestock farming, so there are a lot of animals (and animal smells) around to add to the experience. (See separate post.)

The highlight of the day was exploring the ruins of a 2,400 year old (iron age) hilltop fortress or "castro." 

It's hard to capture in photos, but there is a high wall (buried under earth and vegetation) around the hilltop. The views of the surrounding valleys was remarkable. 

Also of interest today, a cross on a pillar (common along the Camino) with some unusual additions: A skull and bones on the base below Christ on the cross above, and on the other side, masonry tools below Mary cradling Jesus. There are various theories of meaning...

Tomorrow: Staying at Los Dos Alemanes in O Coto.

Portomarin (part 2 - churches)

Iglacia de San Nicolás in Portomarin is a Romanesque church and fortress originally built in the 12th and 13th centuries by the knights of Saint John. 

It was moved to higher ground in the 1950s before the river was impounded.

The acoustics are fantastic! (I got to sing to an empty house again.)

The images in the stone work are also quite interesting. No record exist explaining the meaning of the images, and there are both Christian and pagan themes. So, some pieces are still open to interpretation. 

Also moved to higher ground was the facade of Iglacia de San Pedro. 

Returning to Barbadelo, where I started this morning, their 12th century Iglasia de Santiago has stone images described as primitive. This likely indicates that the creators were more familiar with pagan, rather than Christian ideas.

Portomarin (part 1)

The forecast for today was HOT (it's over 90 as I write this), so I got an early start into a misty morning sun. 

As mentioned yesterday, I  am now in the final 100 km, so there are significantly more people. The quiet hours of contemplation are gone for now, but there is an exciting and fun energy brought by the groups of young people that adds to the journey. 

As with yesterday, much of the path today was through green woods, but the pathway was wider with less encroachment by the wilds.

Eventually the path leads over a ridge to a view of Portomarin, across the largest body of water I've seen in Spain! 

The plan to impounded the river in the 1960s led to the relocation of the village to higher ground, including moving their 12th century Romanesque church, block by block. (See part 2 of this post for pictures of the church.)

Tomorrow: Staying at Casa da Cota in Ligonde.

(Proof, to 3 points of precision - 100.000 km. Not sure why they don't just say 100,000 meters.)

Barbadelo

I spent much of today walking through deep, green forests, with ancient oak and chestnut trees encroaching on the ancient path cut through the woods and into the stone.

I am now well into Galicia, with its wetter climate, slate and granite structures, and ancient celtic influences. The architecture, food, and language is all noticeably different from just a few days ago, on the other side of the mountains.

I also passed through Sarria today. It's not a big town, but it's important in that it is the last significant population center on the Camino more than 100 km to Santiago. Officially, pilgrims must walk at least 100 kilometers to receive the "Compostela" - the official document recognizing completion of the pilgrimage. So, many people start in Sarria. I'm told to expect some crowds, many more young people, and more of a party atmosphere from here to Santiago. All part of the experience.

Tomorrow: Staying at Pensión Boavista in Portomarin.

Samos - day 2

Samos highlights: 

A 500+ year old cypress tree, next to a 9th century chapel.

A gently falling river framed by trees and stone:

A Benedictine monastery:

Beyond seeing these things, I spent my day writing and drinking coffee, resting on my tiny balcony, and having dinner with a Loyola Law professor. 

Nice, peaceful day.

Tomorrow: Walking just past Sarria to Casa Das Aires in Barbadelo.