La Portela de Valcarce

Back into mountains today! Followed the old highway up the river valley through the foothills and gradually higher. Reminded me a lot of Colorado - except with broad leaf things everywhere and very few needles. Also, (and related) more humidity. Not uncomfortable, but definitely not "dry mountain air."

Along the way, I went through Villafranca del Bierzo, a sizable village at the foot of the mountains with a river, a castle, and several churches. One of the churches, Iglasia de Santiago, has the distinction of having the Puerto del Perdón, through which a pilgrim too sick or injured to complete the journey to Santiago de Compostela may receive the same blessing of forgiveness. (Apparently this option is no longer offered. I imagine that modern transportation has something to do with that.)

Earlier today, more vineyards. Note the rose bushes at the end of the rows in the second picture. Apparently, the roses are less hardy than the vines, so the are indicators of the health of the field.

A giant wine press:

And here in the hills, ancient chestnut trees:

Tomorrow: 9 miles and 2000+ feet up to O Cebreiro, staying at Casa Anton.

Cacabelos

Under 200 km to Santiago! 

Today was an easy walk through slow rolling hills, heading for the third and final mountain range on this journey. Tomorrow brings 22 km in the foothills, and Thursday is all up.

Back into some vineyards today:

And a dancing baby Jesus? 

(Stayin' Alive!? 🤔)

Tomorrow: Hotel Valcarce in La Portela de Valcarce.

Ponferrada - day 2

Nothing too interesting to share today. After 6 weeks on the Camino, I needed a prep and planning day. Some shopping, a haircut, laundry and other cleaning, repairs repacking, and booking out the rest of my itinerary. Two weeks to Santiago! (inshallah...)

Tomorrow: Staying at La Gallega in Cacabelos.

Ponferrada - day 1

Hiked the rest of the way down out of the mountains today and into Ponferrada. I spent late afternoon exploring the Templar Castle, high on a bluff overlooking the Sil River. This has been a significant strategic location since long before the Templars arrived, but their story here begins in 1194, when they took over and started building up this fortress, in part to protect the pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Below the castle is the Pons Ferrada - iron bridge - that was built a century earlier to enable pilgrims to cross the river.

The mountains I came down from today, from the castle tower:

These last couple days have been good but challenging. This evening I found a lovely spot to relax and treat myself to a good meal.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Ponferrada, staying at the same place.